Tweeds

[Pax]

Bla bla video: http://www.ehow.com/video_4431615_fabrics-wool-tweed.html

Niets is zo beïnvloedbaar als een mens en ik ging even opzoek naar tweedjasjes met opgestikte zakken.
Maar die zijn helemaal niet zo gangbaar, blijkbaar, want ik kan ze niet vinden.
Zijn ze daarom gewilder dan het gebruikelijke model?

Bij de internetaanbieders kan ik ook geen info vinden over het gewicht van de stof.
Welk gewicht zou ideaal zijn als je er de hele herfst mee in de buitenlucht wilt lopen?

About Harris Tweed

Harris tweed is a woolen fabric, often with bright plaid designs, that is created by weavers living in the Outer Hebrides islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra, off the Scottish coast. According to the Harris Tweed Authority, only materials made on these islands can be called Harris Tweed. Harris Tweed has been made in the Outer Hebrides for generations, and in 1933 an Act of Parliament decreed that no makers other than those on the islands could claim to make Harris Tweed or use the name. Today, Harris Tweed remains "hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides."

Yarn Making
Wool is washed and bleached (if white wool is needed) or dyed in a finishing factory. Water and excess dye are removed and the wool is dried. An oil is added to the wool to replace the grease lost in washing and dyeing, and the wool is carded and spun into yarn.

Weaving
After being threaded into warp and weft, the wool is sent out to home weavers on the islands, who have their own looms for making the cloth. Weavers use manually operated looms powered by foot pedals to create fabrics requested by designers and sellers.

Finishing
 A man's jacket made with Taransay Harris Tweed.When the fabric is woven, the weavers send it back to the finishing factories where it is washed again, lightly felted, and long strands of hair are clipped off. The cloth is inspected by the Harris Tweed Authority for flaws. When the cloth is approved, it is stamped with the seal of the Harris Tweed Authority and can be sold as Harris Tweed. The finished cloth is also marked with the location of manufacture and the name of the weaver who made it.

[Pax]

Harris Tweed is a luxury textile that is hand woven by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. It is characterized by subtle flecks of color that are dyed and spun using pure, virgin, local wool. All genuine Harris Tweed meets the requirements defined in the Harris Tweed Act of 1993 and is also certified with the Harris Tweed Orb symbol to confirm its authenticity. Harris Tweed is commonly used in producing clothing and accessories such as men's suits, hats, women's skirts, handbags and shoes.

Significance
Harris Tweed is a significant fabric that is emblematic of the history and people from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. In the middle of the 19th century, the Western areas of Scotland traditionally made their textiles entirely by hand. When the Industrial Revolution reached Scotland, the mainland turned to machines to weave their cloth, while the outer islands preserved their practices. In 1846, Lady Dunmore had the Murray tartan print copied by Harris weavers, using tweed. It become so lucrative, Lady Dunmore devoted much of her time to marketing the cloth and improving the process to produce it. This marks the beginning of the Harris Tweed Industry.

Innovations
At the turn of the century, a new type of loom called the fly-shuttle replaced the more primitive one that was previously used. This loom was one of the key developments in weaving and helped fuel the Industrial Revolution. In 1905, the Trades Marks Act was passed to prevent the competition of mill-spun tweed being passed as genuine Harris Tweed. In 1909, the Certification Mark was granted and stamping began in 1911.
By the 1920s, the Hattersley single-width loom was introduced to the islands by Lord Leverhulme and changed the industry once again. Weavers were now able to produce more complicated patterns that could not have been done before. This loom is still used in production today's industry.

Production
With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, the Outer Hebrides of Scotland continued their traditional practice of hand-weaving their cloth, instead of using machinery. The raw wool material was obtained from a mixture of blackfaced, crossbred and cheviot sheep. After it the wool was washed and scoured in a solution of soap and water soda, the wool was hydro-extracted and dried so that it would become its familiar "white" color. In the 19th century, vegetable dyes were used as coloring, while some of the wool was left in its natural, uncolored state.
After dyeing the wool, it was mixed with the uncolored wool to achieve the desired shade. The wool was then oiled and teased so to open out the fibers. Then, the process of carding allowed the fibers to be drawn out in preparation for spinning. Until the beginning of the 20th century, a hand loom was used for weaving with a manual shuttle. Machine-spinning and vat dying have replaced traditional hand methods and only weaving is carried out in the home under the governance of the Harris Tweed Authority.

Harris Tweed Act of 1993
"An Act to make provision for the establishment of a Harris Tweed Authority to promote and maintain the authenticity, standard and reputation of Harris Tweed for the definition of Harris Tweed for preventing the sale as Harris Tweed of material which does not fall within the definition' for the Authority to become the successor to The Harris Tweed Association Limited' and for other purposed incidental thereto." ---Office of Public Sector Information, art of the National Archives.
As defined by the Harris Tweed Act of 1993, "Harris Tweed is cloth that has been hand-woven by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in their homes, using pure virgin wool that has been dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides."

Contemporary Use of Harris Tweed
 Nike sneakers with Harris TweedThe late 1990s were a difficult time period for the British textile industry and Harris Tweed also suffered. In 2004, Nike ordered 10,000 meters of cloth to produce a limited-edition collection of retro sneakers that was originally released in the 1980s. By December 2006, a Yorkshire businessman bought Kenneth Mackenzie Ltd. in Stornoway, which produced about 95 percent of Harris Tweed.

[Jay]

Men weet dat er een artikel over Harris Tweed in de laatste Monocle staat?

[Mediaman]

Men weet dat er een artikel over Harris Tweed in de laatste Monocle staat?

Dat heb ik hier gepost: http://www.stijlforum.nl/SMF/index.php/topic,2267.msg254960.html#msg254960

[Pax]

Dat heb ik hier gepost: http://www.stijlforum.nl/SMF/index.php/topic,2267.msg254960.html#msg254960

Thanks, interessant stuk inderdaad.
Die 4 jasjes die nu worden gemaakt door sir Hagas, en waarvan de prijs enorm gekelderd is, zijn dat een beetje SF-waardige jasjes? En hoe zit het met het gewicht van de stof, is dat altijd hetzelfde of zijn er verschillen?

Eindelijk ook een jasje gevonden met opgestikte zakken.
Ik zie het stijlvollere ervan nog niet:

[Markx]

Opgestikte zakken zonder kleppen a.u.b.
Iets in deze trend

Weet overigens niet of dat tweed is, ik denk het haast niet.

[NOBD]

[...] En hoe zit het met het gewicht van de stof, is dat altijd hetzelfde of zijn er verschillen?
[...]

De Harris Tweeds via Harrisons die je hier ziet, zijn allemaal 15oz/450g, maar ik weet niet of het gewicht vastgesteld is voor alle Harris Tweeds.

[Daedalus]

[Pax]

Interview met Norton & Sons:
http://www.gentlemanscorner.com/2009/07/the-craft-of-tweed-an-interview-with-norton-sons.html

Foto niet van Norton:

[Pax]

Een artikel van 8-9-2009 in de Independent:

It’s big on the grouse moor and hot on the catwalk, yet Scotland’s favourite fabric is having a rough time. John Walsh on an industry that’s falling apart at the seams

Met een foto van de beruchte Brian Haggas:


http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/tweed-all-about-it-1783357.html

[Rogier]

Tweed ja! Is het al oktober, dan mag ik bestellen? {|=

[M.]

*gaat achteraan in de rij staan*

Ik wil ook een tweed jasje!

[Pax]

Nederland fietsland.
Hoe kan het mooier:

[Daedalus]

Yay or nay?

[J]

The Prince of Wales, dus nagenoeg altijd 'yay'.