Auteur Topic: Nieuwsartikelen  (235480 keer gelezen)

Daedalus

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cyka blyat

Daedalus

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #16 Gepost op: 12 september 2009 – 22:53:43
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1539297/British-tweed-suits-the-Italians.html


British tweed suits the Italians
By Malcolm Moore in Florence
Published: 12:01AM GMT 12 Jan 2007


A woman looks at a suit made for Madonna by designer Henry Rose


This season's hottest fashion for Italian men, much to the irritation of local tailors, is British tweed, mustard trousers, Prince of Wales check and flat caps.

The mania for "lo stile inglese" was evident everywhere yesterday, as Pitti Uomo, Italy's annual menswear exhibition which, for the first time in the show's 70-year history, dedicated an entire palazzo over to tailors from Savile Row.

"The Italians are loving it," said Karl Matthews, a tailor at Anderson & Sheppard. "We had an order within half an hour of opening." The tailors, who had a houndstooth dinner jacket made for Fred Astaire in 1935 on show, said they had already had orders for 20 copies from clients around the world.

"They particularly like the traditional clothes, the tweeds and the checks. They can get the cashmere and so on from Ermenegildo Zegna here in Italy," said Richard Anderson, the former head cutter at Huntsman who now runs his own tailor shop.

Elsewhere, Tony Lutwyche, a newcomer to Savile Row, was showing off a jacket made from pashmina and vicuna with pinstripes woven from platinum thread. "It costs around £2,500 a metre for this material, so you are looking for £10,000 for the suit before the labour is taken into consideration," he said.

"English tailoring is back," he said. "Just look at how Ralph Lauren raped and pillaged Savile Row techniques for his Purple collection. We are taking things forward."

Meanwhile, on the other side of Florence, an exhibition charted British tailoring's greatest hits, from the very first dinner jacket, cut for King Edward VII by Henry Poole, to a shooting outfit made for Madonna.

London and the Tuscan capital have had a close connection since Queen Victoria holidayed in the city, and it became an important stop for artists on the grand tour. The enthusiasm for all things British continues at the Old England Store on the Via dei Vecchietti, which sells marmite and baked beans.

However, the arrival of Savile Row in Florence has ruffled feathers about whose tailoring tradition is best. Lucio Nigro, the head of Sartorio, a tailor from Naples, said Savile Row "is too inward-looking, too stuck to the past and to its conventions. People do not change their suit three times a day anymore, or wear smoking jackets. They want a lightweight comfortable suit which they can wear all day.

"Besides, here in Italy we have been able to turn suitmaking into a real business, while retaining a quality product. In London, it is so insular, and elitist."

Enthusiasts of Italian tailoring also point to the fact that James Bond is not clothed in England, but by the Italian tailor, Brioni.

Timothy Everest, who runs one of Savile Row's most up-and-coming ateliers but offers off-the-peg suits made in Italy, admitted: "The Bond suit was a very nice piece, with good attention to design, like the gun holster. Someone described the material as featherlight." However, he said the decision to give Bond an Italian tailor was purely down to product placement fees. "It would be nice for Bond to have a Savile Row suit, but I don't think it is likely on a commercial basis. Look at how many Fords he drove during the movie," he said.

malcolm.moore@telegraph.co.uk
cyka blyat

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #17 Gepost op: 15 augustus 2010 – 21:47:28
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/business/global/01italy.html?_r=4&pagewanted=all

Mooi artikel in de NYT over de problemen van de Italiaanse economie, vanuit het perspectief van de Carlo Barbera stoffenweverij. Stukje uit de inleiding:

“I call it a spa for yarn,” explains Mr. Barbera, a lean and regal 72-year-old, who is dressed in a style that could be described as aristo-casual: white linen button-down shirt, brown herringbone pants and brown leather shoes. He is giving a quick tour of the Carlo Barbera mill, named for his 99-year-old father, and destined to be run by two or three of Luciano’s sons.

Mr. Barbera calls wool a living fiber, and he does not mean this metaphorically. After yarn is dyed here, it rests in the spa for as long as six months, recuperating until 20 percent of its weight is water. Then the material undergoes a 15-step process, which Mr. Barbera will not detail, other than to magisterially summarize it as “the nobilization of the fabric.”

Any shortcuts, he says, would harm the fabric’s “performance.”

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #18 Gepost op: 16 augustus 2010 – 22:57:27
http://www.salon.com/life/feature/2006/01/24/jeffries/index.html

Ouder artikel uit Salon over Mike Jeffries, de CEO van Abercrombie & Fitch.

"For many young men, to wear Abercrombie is to broadcast masculinity, athleticism and inclusion in the "cool boys club" without even having to open their mouths (that may be why the brand is so popular among some gay men who want desperately to announce their non-effeminacy). But because A&F's vision is so constructed and commodified (and because what A&F sells is not so much manhood but perennial boyhood), there is also something oddly emasculating about it. Compared to the 1950s ideal, A&F's version of maleness feels restrictive and claustrophobic. If becoming a man is about independence and growing up, then Abercrombie doesn't feel very masculine at all."

Dantès

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #19 Gepost op: 23 augustus 2010 – 16:08:13

Solitarias

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #20 Gepost op: 25 augustus 2010 – 11:14:57
http://www.salon.com/life/feature/2006/01/24/jeffries/index.html

"For many young men, to wear Abercrombie is to broadcast masculinity, athleticism and inclusion in the "cool boys club" ....."

"Labels say you're one of the boys. Bespoke clothes say you're the man!"
Mijn sartoriale boekencollectie:  http://www.librarything.com/catalog/Solitarias

Orno

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #21 Gepost op: 25 augustus 2010 – 11:15:52
Een sporadische post van een van de oprichters :roll:  Weer actief?
Winnaar van "De titanenstrijd der kekke schoentjes" 2010 - Oxford

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #22 Gepost op: 14 september 2010 – 01:11:31
Vermakelijk cynisch artikel over 'immersive retail', met het Abercrombie & Fitch submerk Hollister als doelwit.

http://www.believermag.com/issues/201009/?read=article_young

"If Southern California surf culture is Hollister’s guiding mythos, it is odd, too, that the company should name itself for a town twenty miles inland with declining home sales and greater-than-average earthquake activity. Did a lot of thought go into the choice?"

Clay

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #23 Gepost op: 15 september 2010 – 10:21:42
Vermakelijk cynisch artikel over 'immersive retail', met het Abercrombie & Fitch submerk Hollister als doelwit.

http://www.believermag.com/issues/201009/?read=article_young

"If Southern California surf culture is Hollister’s guiding mythos, it is odd, too, that the company should name itself for a town twenty miles inland with declining home sales and greater-than-average earthquake activity. Did a lot of thought go into the choice?"

Wel interessant.. Moet een synopsis schrijven voor een mondeling tentamen Retail Marketing, dit is op zich een leuke insteek.

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #24 Gepost op: 15 september 2010 – 11:49:25
Interviews met William Gibson, een visionair SF schrijver. Zijn nieuwste boek speelt zich af in het heden en ziet marketingcampagnes als de militaire operaties van nu, mode als de nieuwe olie om over te vechten. Heb het nog niet gelezen, ben erg benieuwd. Het eerste deel van deze trilogie (Pattern Recognition) is in mijn ogen een must-read voor collega's in het vak.

http://www.theatlantic.com/culture/archive/2010/09/william-gibson-and-the-future-of-the-future/62863/

"I was in San Francisco last month, and what struck me about it was that I'd never seen San Francisco manifest such coherent street fashion. People under 30, particularly, were dressed to global urban standard. You could have plucked them out of San Francisco and dropped them into Tokyo, London, New York or Williamsburg and you'd be absolutely unable to pick them out of the crowd. People 30 and under are taking their codes from the web, not from fashion magazines. Young people in Vancouver have never dressed like young people in New York or London. Now they do. They get all the details right, because they're reading The Sartorialist every day. They've got a way to crack the code without having to go to New York, Tokyo or London."

http://www.viceland.com/blogs/en/2010/09/03/william-gibson/

"We have a situation where the devious idea of luxury goods has been undercut by its own total ubiquity (…) so the original idea of exclusivity has gone out the window. The secret brands idea says, "You’ve got a lot of money, but you can’t have this shit because you don’t have the right information." It suddenly becomes exclusive again."
Laatst bewerkt op: 15 september 2010 – 11:56:32 door GuyS

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #25 Gepost op: 21 september 2010 – 17:21:02
Interessante karakterschets van Draper Daniels, de copywriter op wie Don Draper uit Mad Men is gebaseerd, vanuit het perspectief van zijn businesspartner (en later vrouw) Myra.

http://www.chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/August-2009/I-Married-a-Mad-Man/index.php

The firm had been through several buyouts and mergers and I had a funny feeling that he was about to tell me of another one. I asked, “Are you going to sell me with the next merger?” (...)
"I’ve been thinking about this for nine months, Myra," he said, "and I think we would make a great team."
I said,
"I think we are a great team. Think of what we’ve accomplished so far this year."
He said,
I’m talking about a different sort of merger."
"Oh."
"Yes, I’ve decided I’d like to marry you."

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #26 Gepost op: 21 september 2010 – 17:46:19
Leuk artikel van een journaliste die een dagje meeloopt in de keuken van French Laundry, een sterrenrestaurant aan de westkust van Amerika.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/09/12/FD1F26JG.DTL

Thomas Keller, executive chef and owner of the French Laundry, twice named "the best restaurant in the world," walked into the restaurant's waiting room, shook my hand, introduced himself, then looked me up and down and cleared his throat.
"You're wearing jeans."

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #27 Gepost op: 14 oktober 2010 – 20:01:03
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/business/global/01italy.html?_r=4&pagewanted=all
Mooi artikel in de NYT over de problemen van de Italiaanse economie, vanuit het perspectief van de Carlo Barbera stoffenweverij.

Probleem opgelost, Kiton heeft de Barbera weverij gekocht:
http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kiton-buys-carlo-barbera-mill-3329528

GuyS

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #28 Gepost op: 22 oktober 2010 – 15:19:12
(toch benieuwd, leest iemand deze links überhaupt?)

Vanwege de steeds meer dalende verkopen moeten uitgevers alternative business models bedenken. Een eigen co-branded productlijn kennen we al van het enkelbijtertje Monocle, maar ook industry giant Esquire gaat nu die kant op.

http://www.fastcodesign.com/1662485/the-future-of-publishing-esquire-will-sell-2500-couches-and-200-lamps

In an era of increasingly uncertain sales, magazines have to use their cultural currency as a form of financial guarantee. They've always excelled at selling things for other people, through both their advertising and their own editorial. So why not sell direct to their audience?

DL

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Re: Nieuwsartikelen
Reactie #29 Gepost op: 22 oktober 2010 – 15:30:12
Ja.