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Believe it or not, your jumper can provide a reading of where you stand on the political spectrumDo you have a 'Tory' knitwear hiding in your wardrobe? Rishi Sunak, Prince Harry and Mikel Arteta all have a fewBy Stephen Doig 6 March 2023 • 5:42pmHow right-wing is your knitwear? It’s a question you likely haven’t pondered before, but your jumper has the ability to place you on the political spectrum. Twitter came alive at the weekend when Rishi Sunak was photographed in a three-quarter zip knit. “This is the most Tory item of clothing,” tweeted one user. The thing is… he’s right, isn’t he? Sunak’s particular model is a grey Ralph Lauren Polo knit with the signature quarter zip collar. That detail’s essential, because it calls for a crisp shirt underneath – there’s an uprightness to it that’s entirely in keeping with a Tory sense of fogeyish fashion. There are certain style signifiers that are both conservative and ‘Conservative’. It’s about a steadfast sense of properness (nothing wrong with that), a reliance on traditional staples. Would you see Barbours, club ties, red trousers and plaid sports jackets at a meeting of the Young Socialists? No, you would not. They’ve been Torified over the past 50 years or so, the same way that Nigel Farage’s covert coat – distinctive from a classic camel thanks to its velvet collar – oozes a stale-pub whiff of sabre rattling. You just know that a Charles Tyrwhitt checked shirt tucked into a zip-neck knit is going to have an autobiography of Boris Johnson lining the bookshelves.Left to right: Prince Harry matching his quarter zip with a classic, crisp shirt; Mikel Arteta layering his knit on the touchline and Prince William in a blue numberLeft to right: Prince Harry matching his quarter zip with a classic, crisp shirt; Mikel Arteta layering his knit on the touchline and Prince William in a soft blue numberBack to the knit in question. There’s nothing offensive about quarter-zip knits – in fact most men probably have one in their wardrobe. Stats from John Lewis show that quarter-zip sweaters have sold 63 per cent more than the standard old crewneck this season. You can buy one to suit all budgets – everywhere from Fendi to Marks & Spencer. They do, however, feature largely across certain pockets of blue-blood Britain – Princes Harry and William are both fans. Our warring frères are likely on board with them for the same reason that Sunak is – they’re the most formal iteration of knitwear a man can wear because they require that all-important shirt collar. It’s the knitwear equivalent of showing you’re a good sort of chap, not one of these oiks in a sloppy old fisherman’s knit or – perish the thought – a hoodie (although Sunak is fond of a bit of sportswear to show he’s down with the proles). Other patrons include Arsenal manager Mikel Arteta and David Beckham.Knitwear has coincidentally become a big story in how certain stealth-wealth power is conveyed; Succession’s costume department gets it right so succinctly with those Loro Piana cashmeres and Brunello Cucinelli cover-ups. Leave the middle management to posture in their tailored suits; real influence and top-tier power wears excellent knitwear. It helps that Sunak’s is from Ralph Lauren, the king of preppy style who built a monolithic brand selling the Ivy League American dream to the world. Scoff all you want about what your clothes say about your political leanings, but fashion is inherently political and there are certain items of clothing we associate with where you sit on the political spectrum. Margaret Thatcher’s pussybows and pearls, for example, or Michael Foot’s donkey jacket. Tony Blair’s dynamic, vim-and-vigour suits were an essential part of his image-making. Over Boris Johnson’s pantomime dame running ensembles, we shall draw a discreet veil. Forget the blue rosette of Harry Enfield’s Tory Boy; today it’s your knitwear choice that really shows your colours. Is the quarter zip really the most right-wing item of clothing out there? Let us know your thoughts in the comments belowRelated Topics
Wat een enorme winnaar is hij toch!
