Nieuwsartikelen

[Pster]

Beste minister-president die we nooit gehad hebben.

Dat is Bolkestein toch?

[Agent 327]

https://www.trouw.nl/leven/beppe-modenese-de-premier-van-de-italiaanse-mode~bada7919/

Dank voor het bericht. Een bekend gezicht van allerlei blogs en pins op Pinterest etc.

[Mark020]

De NRC zakt steeds verder weg maar soms staat er nog wel eens iets waars in:

[Mark020]

The 21 best menswear stores in the world
From a specialist shoe shop in Florence to a Paris tailor or a vintage dealer in Japan, our expert guide to independent retailers should fit every shape of style


https://www.ft.com/content/83be5e69-c590-4435-aae4-113714bb4877

Drake’s, London
Despite its Savile Row address, Drake’s is more an outfitter than a tailor. This “maker and haberdasher” prides itself on offering a full-look collection that combines eccentric design with exceptional craftsmanship. The store feels like an artist’s studio, with floor-to-ceiling palms in huge ceramic pots and original artworks covering the walls. Walk through its length and you’ll brush past beautifully made shirts, tailoring, knitwear, shoes and the brand’s famous neckties. Aleks Cvetkovic 9 Savile Row, W1; drakes.com 


Massimo Alba
Massimo Alba, Milan
In the hip Brera district of Milan, Massimo Alba’s shop is festooned with the designer’s signature soft corduroy tailoring in rare hues, washed pleat-front grandad shirts and poetically cheeky slogan-print pocket squares, each one like a tiny painting. The store, with parquet floors and monstera-lined walls, is “a box in which I put the things I like,” says Alba. It also houses rare furniture and changing photographic prints, as well as special-edition Tricker’s and Fasciani shoes. Tom Stubbs Via Brera 8, 20121; massimoalba.com


Bryceland’s & Co co-founders Kenji Cheung and Ethan Newton
Bryceland’s & Co, Tokyo
A first-time visitor here will most probably be struck by the way the store seamlessly fuses different styles. There is high-end tailoring, made-to-measure and fine Italian silk ties, but also tough high-waisted chinos and denim trucker jackets, with hand-sewn shoes alongside baseball caps. Co-founder Ethan Newton manages to make it all work and is often found practising his guitar in the store, while the in-house tailor works on fittings behind the scenes. Simon Crompton 3 Chome-15-4 Jingumae, Shibuya City, 150-0001; brycelandsco.com


Connolly
Connolly, London
Isabel Ettedgui has created an exquisite amalgam of art, people, aesthetics, and beautifully designed and made clothes in Connolly, one of London’s leading custodians of luxury. Leather goods are followed by the store’s own compelling collections, as well as exceptional products from cult marques such as Charvet and Blackhorse Lane Ateliers. The interior was designed by architects Gilles & Boissier and features marble accents, oak spiral stairs and an exhibition space. TS 4 Clifford Street, W1; connollyengland.com


Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery
Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, London
This offshoot of the famed London tailors was founded to supply men’s trousers in a comprehensive range of shapes and styles, but the haberdashery’s remarkable products extend through knitwear, gloves, hats and scarves. The impeccably informed shop team, which includes Audie Charles and owner Anda Rowland, help nurture a relaxed vibe within the plush interior, where a mix of London characters and luminaries can often be found chatting on the expansive sofas. TS 17 Clifford Street, W1; anderson-sheppard.co.uk


Rocky Mountain vest, £475, from Beige Habilleur
Beige Habilleur, Paris
This bijou boutique, founded in 2015 by Basile Khadiry and Jean-Baptiste Ménétrier, is in the south-western corner of Paris. Its buy is informed by its owners’ interest in French Ivy style and a “buy less, buy better” philosophy – with products curated from all over the world. From Japanese sunglasses to Irish knitwear, this is a place to discover beautifully made investment pieces. AC 83 Rue Chardon-Lagache, 75016; beige-habilleur.com

Liverano & Liverano, Florence
Few ateliers are as special as that of Florence’s master tailor, 83-year-old living legend Antonio Liverano. He’s widely recognised as one of the world’s great bespoke craftsmen, and his palatial store in the centre of the city reflects his immaculate taste. A warren of workrooms, fitting rooms and tall oak-lined chambers packed with bolts of vintage fabric, this shop is as charming as it is impressive. AC Via dei Fossi 43, 50123; liverano.com


The Armoury
The Armoury, Hong Kong
The guys behind The Armoury struck gold when they opened their flagship store in central Hong Kong. They are modern men’s outfitters, covering all the bases with an eye on European and Japanese craft – from soft Neapolitan tailoring by Orazio Luciano to a classic tuxedo made in collaboration with Osaka’s Ring Jacket. The service is fantastic and personalised, whether you’re looking for a Jean Rousseau watch strap or a made-to-measure suit. Mark C O’Flaherty 307 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central; thearmoury.com


Husbands © Leigh Hatwell
Husbands, Paris
This is no ordinary tailor’s shop. The brand’s founder Nicolas Gabard views the suit as a cultural artefact and believes in the power of tailoring to improve a man’s mood, self-esteem and philosophy on life. The store is small but perfectly formed, with a wall of floor-length mirrors on one side and rails packed with tailored jackets on the other. Expect suits cut with a subtle nod to the ’70s, plus service that is equal parts attentive and gracious. AC 57 Rue de Richelieu, 75002; husbands-paris.com

FOR CASUAL WEAR


Clutch Cafe
Clutch Cafe, London
This emporium is a shrine to Japanese designers’ love of midcentury American style. The two-storey shop and café imports menswear from vintage-inspired western jackets to horsehide bombers and Cuban-collar shirts. Cult brands such as Stevenson Overall, Buzz Rickson’s and Full Count jeans top the bill. The coffee’s good as well. AC 78 Great Portland Street, W1; clutch-cafe.com


Broadway & Sons
Broadway & Sons Gothenburg
This capacious store in Sweden’s second city is a haven for vintage menswear. It’s also a good old-fashioned family business. It was founded in 1982 by David Asseraf, who today runs it with his two sons Nathaniel and Noam. This trio scour the globe in search of clothing curiosities and dead-stock military surplus. If you’re looking for a vintage piece that’s rare or hard to come by, chances are you’ll find it here. AC Korsgatan 7, 411 16; broadwayandsons.com


Nigel Cabourn
Nigel Cabourn, London
The Covent Garden outpost is every bit as fascinating as the designer’s clothes. The interior utilises his “Army Gym” concept, contrasting British military memorabilia with contemporary designs. From parkas inspired by second-world-war originals to shorts and jackets made from deadstock military canvas, this is a haven for lovers of reassuringly robust menswear. AC 28 Henrietta Street, WC2; cabourn.com

Laboratory/Berberjin, Tokyo
Japan is one of the best places for vintage menswear, and BerBerJin is one of the top-rated spots in Tokyo. The Harajuku boutique’s near-obsessiveness comes across in the iconic pieces displayed on the walls, but also in the careful arrangement of everything else, such as denim organised and labelled by waist, leg length and model. SC 3-26-11 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, 150-0001; berberjin.com

FOR HIGH FASHION


18Montrose © Luke Dyson
18Montrose, London
This is the London home to cult labels such as Ten C, And Wander and Stone Island Shadow Project, and menswear enthusiasts make pilgrimages to the striking space in King’s Cross. The young staff have in-depth knowledge of the brands they carry – including Vetements, CP Company, Moncler and Barena – and are very glad to share. TS 6-8 Stable Street, London N1; 18montrose.com


Leclaireur
Leclaireur, Paris
There are now four of these concept stores (three in Paris and another in Los Angeles) but the Rue Hérold branch has the most rarefied menswear labels. The façade sets the tone: there’s no indication that there’s a shop here. Inside, Jun Takahashi’s avant-garde-meets-utilitarian Undercover collection sits next to artfully weathered boots from Guidi and the esoteric anti-establishment craft of Paul Harnden and Carol Christian Poell. MCO 10 Rue Hérold, 75001; leclaireur.com


Maison Margiela Logo ring, £235, and Numbers cuff bracelet, £350, from Hervia Bazaar

Hervia Bazaar
Hervia Bazaar, Manchester
Founder Oscar Pinto-Hervia is a retail visionary. He stocked Alexander McQueen’s seminal Dante collection in 1996, ran a chain of Vivienne Westwood’s stores and looks after Y-3 in London. The latter is core product at his Manchester boutique, along with Rick Owens, Thom Browne and Yohji Yamamoto Homme. The vibe is luxury athleisure, punctuated with colourful fashion-forward accessories. MCO 40 Spring Gardens, M2 1EN; hervia.com

If, New York
A loyal clientele visit this boutique early in the season for limited-edition artisanal menswear by Elena Dawson from the UK and Archivio JM Ribot from Italy. Many of the products in this Manhattan store, which launched in 1978, come from designers who refuse to sell anything online – they believe you have to see and touch the handcraft. The current store, which opened in the early ’90s, is in a classic SoHo loft building, with an open-plan industrial atmosphere and staff who are real New York characters. MCO 94 Grand Street, NY 10013; ifsohonewyork.com

FOR ACCESSORIES


Skoaktiebolaget © Milad Abedi
Skoaktiebolaget, Stockholm
Perhaps the Swedish capital’s finest men’s shoe store, with incredibly knowledgeable staff, Skoaktiebolaget is renowned among footwear connoisseurs the world over. Happily shortened to “Skoak”, the name can be translated as “Shoe Incorporated” and sells models from Enzo Bonafé and Paolo Scafora, as well as Saint Crispin’s, John Lobb and others. There is also a well-considered house line called Löf & Tung. SC Nybrogatan 23, 114 39; skoaktiebolaget.com


Stefano Bemer atelier
Stefano Bemer, Florence
This is a true destination store: somewhere worth visiting as an experience alone. The shoemaker is housed in an old church on the south side of the Arno, and has a shop, workshop, school and tailoring space within the three floors. Most of the shoes are entirely hand-sewn, including the top-end bespoke service. SC Via di San Niccolò 2; stefanobemer.com

E.Marinella, Naples
Few shops are more famous for their opening hours than their products. But E.Marinella, the tie store in Naples, is renowned for the fact the owner, Maurizio, opens early every day himself, welcoming in friends for a coffee as much as to buy neckwear. It’s a tiny space, stocked full of the distinctive woven ties packaged in plastic sheaths and card. And those ties have graced the necks of most of Europe’s male politicians, as well as a fair mix of royalty – so you’re in good company. SC Riviera di Chiaia 287, 80122; emarinella.com


Optimo Montecristi fedora, $995
Optimo, Chicago
By its own claim, as well as those of others, Optimo makes the best hats in the world. These are brimmed styles, panamas and fedoras, crafted from the finest felt and straw. They’re all made in the Optimo factory, in another part of Chicago, which has won awards for its design as well as its quality – not something many factories can say. The Optimo shop downtown is a dark, quiet haven, dominated by the long bar across which customers can request hats to be handed. This is a personal service: nothing is self-serve. SC 51 W Jackson Boulevard, IL 60604; optimo.com

[Mark020]

Geinig artikel in FT

   
   Guy Berryman’s head full of dreams
The Coldplay bassist turned menswear designer on his inspirations and obsessions — from Margiela to his Lamborghini Miura

There’s a relatively plain Issey Miyake jersey draped over musician Guy Berryman’s Eames leather lounge chair and ottoman as we sit down in the design studio at his Gloucestershire home, and its details have sent us down a rabbit hole. I recognise the brushmark and typography on the garment’s label as peak 1980s Miyake, and we’re quickly talking Japanese textiles, cuts and quality. “Look at how modern it is,” he says, stretching his arms up to put it on. “I bought it from a vintage site recently, and it’s amazing. I’ve used it as a starting point to make something myself. At first glance there’s nothing special about it, but when you put it on, you see all the seam detailing on the arms and the low drop on the shoulder. It’s incredible.”

While Scotsman Berryman — who enjoys an idyllic life in the 19th-century mansion he shares with Dutch model Keshia Gerrits, their three-year-old son Lucien, new baby Bea, and his 14-year-old daughter, Nico — is best known as the bassist with Coldplay (the band have sold more than 100 million records worldwide since their career began in 1998), he has spent the past year working on the launch of his own fashion label, Applied Art Forms. 

There’s nothing Pretty Green about it. “I trained as an engineer and architect at university,” he explains, sitting in front of his iMac on a 1970s Kashima sofa chair by Michel Ducaroy for Ligne Roset — precisely what a rock star with a design pedigree would use as an office chair. “My interest in menswear is quite pure — analysis and deconstruction feed my soul and make me happy. I’m a total nerd. This isn’t a vanity project. I lose sleep over the details on each garment — the stitching, bar tacks and the fit on the waist of a sweatshirt. I am working with a small team in Amsterdam and we communicate constantly.”


Guy Berryman at home in Gloucestershire. He wears Applied Art Forms crewneck sweater, €160, and cargo trousers, €390 © Michael Sinclair

Berryman’s garage with some of his collection of 1960s European sports cars © Michael Sinclair
Berryman’s passion for clothing is indulged in a substantial vintage collection: army surplus, a lot of early Helmut Lang and Margiela (all from when both designers were in situ at their respective houses), and Raf Simons. He picks out his favourite Lang piece, a snow parka inspired by the original US military M-65 design. “It was instrumental in making me want to design our own version,” he explains. “I love the modular nature of it, with so many different layers. Ours has a removable lining, concealed collar and detachable hood — we worked out it can be worn in 50 different configurations. I like that we’ve been inspired by Lang, and he by the military original. I’m really interested in the culture around each designer’s interpretation of a piece.”

During the past year, Berryman has spent much of his time designing menswear in the all-white converted barn on his estate. It also houses his state-of-the-art audio equipment — and a collection of 1960s European sports cars. Car restoration is another passion, along with mid-century furniture and all things Stanley Kubrick. Along one wall of his office is a triptych of monotype portraits he created of the late auteur, and in the garage below, next to a sleek Bizzarrini Strada sports car (designed by Enzo Ferrari’s head engineer in the early ’60s), hangs a painting of an ape meandering between an arrangement of red Djinn chairs by Olivier Mourgue. “I commissioned it from the artist Susie Hamilton,” says Berryman. “It brings together two key elements from 2001: A Space Odyssey. But Keshia hates it, so it lives with the cars.”


Berryman’s 19th-century house © Michael Sinclair

Berryman with the prototype for the Applied Art Forms AM2-1 modular parka. He wears its CM1-1 hooded deck jacket, €790 © Michael Sinclair

Some of Berryman’s collection of vintage clothing © Michael Sinclair

Two of the triptych of monotype portraits Berryman made of Stanley Kubrick © Michael Sinclair
There’s a lot of visually intriguing hardware scattered around Berryman’s house, which is fashioned from a set of stables. They were originally part of an 1875 hunting residence designed by architect Charles Forster Hayward for Henry Arthur Brassey, the son of a civil engineer and railway contractor who was left a fortune by his father worth the equivalent of £600m. The estate was one of the most advanced in its day, with its own on-site works to provide gas lighting to the house, which was built using stone from local quarries. 

The courtyard at the old stables houses a workshop where Berryman restores his cars. “It’s something I started doing with my dad when I was about 13,” he says. “I think I’ve probably collected everything I’ve been in love with, and I have enough cars for now.” Many models are fit only for the racetrack. “They are incredibly beautiful but the skins on some of the doors are only 2mm aluminium, which offers no protection at all. There are ones I do drive though. I used to go on two or three road trips a year, driving down to Rome and stopping off at hotels and certain restaurants on the way to visit friends. I’ve really missed that during lockdown.”


Berryman in the Applied Art Forms design studio with a rail of pieces © Michael Sinclair

Berryman’s 1960s Ferrari 275 GTB and (behind) Lamborghini Miura P400 © Michael Sinclair

The Applied Art Forms design studio with 1970s Bambole sofa by Mario Bellini (on left) and 1950s Illum Wikkelso sofa © Michael Sinclair
In addition to more spanners, ratchets and sockets than anyone but a petrolhead would imagine you’d need in the workshop (all specialist kit used to tweak Berryman’s precious Lancias and Citroëns), there are a number of incredible-looking heavy metal Diagraph stencil machines. Originally conceived to add stencil type to cargo that made its way down the Mississippi River in the late 19th century, the machines went on to develop a military connotation. Think of the very precise, regimented lettering in M*A*S*H. “I love this typography — its form is dictated by function,” says Berryman, who has used them for printwork at Applied Art Forms. “We know we need to create a graphic language for the brand, and I’m playing around with the phrase ‘diminished reality’ for a T-shirt graphic because if there’s any phrase that sums up the world right now, I think it’s that.”

It’s the physical and mechanical nature of the Diagraph process that pushes Berryman’s buttons — he loves the heft and individual nature of each hand-pressed punch. A common thread emerges as we walk through the main house, passing a Warhol silkscreen of Mick Jagger on our way to the library, with its 1970s Mario Bellini modular sofa and a hand-carved Victorian wooden mannequin — each industrial in nature yet also totally unique. So many of the objects reveal their manner of construction; there’s a simplicity to them that took Herculean effort to achieve. 


Berryman in his garage with his 1960s Lamborghini Miura P400. He wears Applied Art Forms CM1-1 hooded deck jacket, €790, and cargo trousers, €390 © Michael Sinclair

A 1950s President desk by De Coene Frères for Knoll in Berryman’s library © Michael Sinclair
En route, he chats about his love of Dieter Rams, the master of reductionist style who put Braun on the map, as much as he does Margiela. He sees the mid‑’60s as the sweet spot for design. “We’ve lost something since then,” he says. “If you look at a 1960s Ferrari, it’s like a sculpture because the lines are free-flowing and created by hand. Now it’s done by computer, and made to satisfy consumer expectation using carbon fibre.”

We settle in the library, Berryman perching on an imposing 1950s President desk by De Coene Frères for Knoll, which one imagines Mussolini would have found deeply satisfying. His current obsession is a rare book from Japan, compiled in the mid-2000s, featuring late-1970s work by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren — garments from the duo’s Let it Rock, Sex, Seditionaries and World’s End eras. The book, which has no ISBN number, is rumoured to have been put together by super-fan designers Hiroshi Fujiwara and Jun Takahashi, and changes hands for £800 online. 


A 1970s modular sofa by Mario Bellini and a Victorian hand-carved wooden mannequin © Michael Sinclair

An Andy Warhol silkscreen of Mick Jagger © Michael Sinclair

Tools and stencils in the studio © Michael Sinclair

A rail of Applied Art Forms outerwear © Michael Sinclair
“I’ve really fallen in love with this early McLaren and Westwood stuff,” says Berryman, flicking through pages that detail porn-corrupted Disney icons and assorted provocative punk imagery. “The T-shirts were screen-printed by hand, and each piece is special. A friend of mine, [gallerist] Paul Stolper, has a large collection of Seditionaries and he showed me all the hidden details in so many of the garments. There’s so much about the stitching that you don’t see from the outside, and when you look at the bondage shirts and trousers, they predate what Helmut Lang went on to do.” 

He draws comparisons between McLaren’s output — mixing and matching different genres — and others who have excelled. “I think Virgil Abloh is the modern version of that, jumping from one medium to another, and in a similar way, I want everything I make to be special. I don’t want the label to be something that I sell on in five years. I want it to have longevity and it to be for a small group of people who love the garments.” 


Berryman in the design studio — behind him is the triptych of monotype portraits he created of Stanley Kubrick © Michael Sinclair
There’s also, of course, other business to tend to, with a new Coldplay album imminent and talk of a tour next year. He plays their new single, “Higher Power” — a joyously upbeat, catchy affair — as we talk about what defines his aesthetic. Does the Eames white leather lounge chair, where he listens to jazz for hours, sum up his style? Sort of, but in a very important way it falls short: “No one can look at that and say it’s not a beautiful piece of design. But it’s not the real thing,” he admits. “I was being a cheapskate and got it for £400 from Amazon. What I love to have are pieces that are authentic. That is my style.”

Paar van de foto's

[wolf]

Smaak heeft ie wel

[Mark020]

Nog eentje dan

[Clay]

Smaak heeft ie wel

qua vrouw ook

[Velponi]

Hij heeft wel die muziek gemaakt he.

[BucharestBlues]

Hij heeft wel die muziek gemaakt he.

My thought. En vertaald direct naar wat ik zie. Mooie stukken. Totaal plaatje doet me geen reedt.

[El hombre blanco]

Jaloers

[ChetBaker]

Fraaie bank iig. Wel die inmiddels obligate Eames de deur uit.

[Ralef]

Fraaie bank iig. Wel die inmiddels obligate Eames de deur uit.

Alleen omdat ie obligaat is? Zit wel erg lekker. Had een tijdje replica en heb die vervangen voor een originele Ari chair. Die replica zat toch echt lekkerder.

[Lewis]

Weet iemand naam + rugnummer van die groene stoel op de laatste foto. Naast de obligate stoel.

[Ralef]

Lijkt op een Herman Miller lobby chair?