Schoenen antique/Berluti finish geven+andere experimenten

[Desiderata]

Heb de vriezertruc ook geprobeerd in combinatie met kleurloze saphircreme: en idd    wat een glans!

Hoe zat dat ook al weer met die vriezer???

Ik wil het ook wel eens proberen....

Zie eerste deel, eerste post:

http://www.stijlforum.nl/viewtopic.php?t=245

Groeten,
Don

[Daedalus]

Iets uitgebreider:
A. Harris's guide to antiquing shoes

[Daedalus]

Leuk voor de doe het zelferts: geniale thread
Ik ga binnenkort een paar Russo loafers aanpakken!

Adventures in Dyeing/Antiquing shoes - a preview

hey folks,

I'm swamped at work this week, so the tutorial I promised on how to dye and antique shoes might be a little slow in coming, but it's for good reason because I learned a few new tricks that I would say are Berluti'esque in the process of dyeing these formerly 'brandy' colored AE Westgate wholecuts into something a lot more attractive (and expensive) looking.

finished result: not bad, eh...



a before picture:

[Fixed - remove everything after .jpg and they work - j.]

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=47061

[Daedalus]

here's a reply to a poster on AA that asked a question about how I did the antiquing that I thought might be worth cross posting here:




<<Originally Posted by Rossini
I do like the overall effect and colour but I am slightly worried that, close up, it betrays exactly how it was done and doesn't really look like regular antiquing. Almost like it needs a good polish to blend the streaks in a little more and get a bit more evenness? But I am willing to be shot down on this! >>


great queston, so let me see if I can explain it

that first picture was shot in direct midday sunlight in order for you to see the light/dark mottling effects (similar to Lobb museum finishes) in the antiquing

Trust me when I tell you that the shoes themselves and the finish are much darker than they appear in that photo, and the antiquing effects have been smoothed out and the shoes polished much more than they appear. It's almost as if I put the shoes under an x-ray machine so that you can see the antiquing part 'lit up'

The Lobb-like mottling effects are the direct result of antiquing techniques using mainly shoe dyes to achieve them. Polish is added as the final step to tie it all together and give it a nice shine, but the polish is icing on the cake, and not the cake. When you use polishes only to antique a shoe, it's impossible to create the depth you see here, because polishes are thick and gloppy substances, whereas paints are thin, dry fast and are easy to layer on top of one another (ie you can see through to the layer beneath it).

To give you an example, take your kids paint set and a white piece of paper and compare what happens to the paper when you layer a series of thin paint brush strokes on top of one another in different directions vs using a thick paint to do the same series of strokes. You can't layer with thick paints because each coat covers the previous so darkly that the original layer gets covered up completely. Whereas if you use a thin paint, each layer creates a 3-D depth effect as it gets added on top of the previous and at the edges. You can see through a thin paint to the layer below very easily. Shoe dyes are thin liquid substances and work the same exact way, whereas shoe polishes are thick and gooey.

How you apply those dyes and how many layers and in what sequence is how you get the Lobb museum effects. And of course, just as white paper makes the best canvas background for layering paints, so too a light colored leather such as tan. If you try to do these techniques on a shoe that's dark brown already, you will still achieve nice results but it won't be anywhere near as stunning as with a tan base leather. You can use bleach to get a dark brown shoe lighter and I would suggest you do this to give it the best possible chance of turning out great.

To smooth it all together at the end, I use one very light swipe of acetone ( ) over the entire shoe to blur the edges and blend the finish together.

By accident, I was even able to take one of my shoes and make it look like a real piece of wood, which is what I consider to be the "Holy Grail of Antiquing" that several Italian shoe companies have been able to achieve and one that I've always greatly admired. I might keep the secret of how I did it to myself,,,, then again, I might not

Btw,,,it took me less than a half hour to go from a plain brandy colored shoe to one fully dyed and antiqued and polished. That's due to experience,,, it will take you about an hour the first time and I suggest you do it slowly to get the best results. Shoe antiquers who use polishes-only can take hours and sometimes days to do their work and still achieve a result that is not durable (polishes flake off over time) and not nearly as deep a patina as those who use dyes. It's one of the reasons why Lobb shoes with a museum finish look so great and age so well. It doesn't rub or flake off with time like polished antiquing jobs do.

I hope this explanation sheds some light on the subject.

[Daedalus]

Quote:
Originally Posted by montecristo#4 View Post
Where do you procure the leather dye?

I used simple Brown leather shoe dye from Lincoln ($8.00/bottle)

Fiebing also makes a good brown shoe dye that's easy to find in different shades on the Internet and at shoe stores

the trick is to use a good medium colored dye and not the dark brown or light brown ones. Medium is dark enough to recreate Edward Green 'dark oak' finishes and it layers the best. Dark brown can sometimes be so dark that it covers up the layering effects if you're not careful.

The second trick is to either bleach a darker colored base shoe (if it's dark brown or even black) or more preferably, find a tan colored shoe in a style you like to dye, because it will pick up the antiqueing effects the best

the shoe I did above was a brandy color originally

you're too kind

all I used was simple Lincoln brown shoe dye + Allen Edmonds Dk Brown polish + acetone + bleach + Lexol leather conditioner and a cotton t-shirt rag. The applicator that comes with the Lincoln dye works great to achieve a Lobb museum effect once you use the right strokes and understand how the paint is applied

btw, there's a nice step-by-step sequence on Marc Guyot's website that shows how he dyes his shoes to get a 3-D effect using 2 different colors of dyes - pretty nice result as well

http://www.marcguyot.com/5.aspx?sr=2

[Rogier]

Patina: nice  

Leest: fugly.

[Daedalus]

De Teaser:

Shoe Antiquing
So, we had an 'Italian Street Fair' this weekend here in Richmond and the shop asked me to go and do some of my antiquing work at the fair. Not exactly used to people observing and asking questions as I work, but here are a couple of shoes I was doing this weekend....not finished, and alot of dust was blowing around on the street, but I thought it would be good to see some of the results that a few hours work can bring. One of the local tv stations filmed it....don't know if it aired or not - was too tired to stay up until the newscast last night. The lace-ups started as solid tan, I was just doing the antiquing in contrast as a demo...one man watched me on Saturday and came on Sunday and ordered a pair done the same way (different!) in his size -

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=45530

[Daedalus]

De tutorial:

Well, since the Forum seems to be on a antiquing jag here lately, I will continue this thread with the process from the beginning. Here we have a pair of Lobb's sent to me after a 'botched' job.....don't know if a homemade version or an attempt by a repair shop, but this is a good example of how you can almost ruin a pair of nice shoes if you don't know what you are doing. Also, there will be some suggestions/points here that should be considered by some of the other posters that are attempting this work at home and starting threads to show the results.



Notice the flaking finish in spots.....I have no idea what was used but the toe and heel areas were stripped with something very harsh - my guess is Acetone....I read that others are using this and I don't suggest it; get 'deglazer' from Angelus...contains acetone, but is much more gentle and the proper thing to use - and this has caused, thru time, the picking off of the finish. It's not hard to take a new pair of shoes and dye them, streak them, etc., and have them look good....it's something else entirely to develop a nice finish that wears well. Be careful of quick jobs - they end up like this more times than not.


5 AM comes earlier and earlier......


Proper preperation is everything. Left shoe properly deglazed and soles taped. Simple work.....wrap high quality cotton cloth around 2 or 3 fingers, soak with deglazer and rub off the existing finish. I also use a razor blade to get into the seams where previous polish builds up....this should take around 10 minutes and you need to rotate the rag and dip constantly.





Instructions for this pair are to fix the finish as best as possible and make dark brown with some antiquing. First steps I take are to highlight the seams and the base of the uppers. No matter how dark you need to go in color, you have to get there in steps....never start with the final color, but slowly get to what you want by building bases of other colors. This is an important point....the real way to a nice finish is to CONSTANTLY rub out the layers of finish you build. The last thing you want to do is coat the shoe in 1 or 2 levels of dye and then try to polish it out...you end up with highly contrasted streaks, taky build-up of dye and a non-durable finish. No matter how good you get the dye to adhere (and every pair is different based on the leather, factory finishing, etc.), the finish will wear out pretty much from the get-go....if you don't build layers you will get a shoe with drastic highlights in a short period of time. Here I can also see how much damage was done to the toe (and heel) by the previous stripping.....means I am guessing that this will require at least 15 levels of dye/rub out.



Don't be in a rush to do the entire shoe at one time....I always do small areas - maybe 1/5th at a time. Except the toe, which I always try to do at once. Remember, when you re-coat, you always loosen the previous coat, so blending is easy if the prep was done properly. Here we started with Russet (using Fiebings on this one....no mixing with analine as it's not neccessary on this job) and have moved to Medium Brown, giving us a cognac sort of base. Again, not trying to get a flat finish....just slowly building the layers. In between doing larger areas (with either daubers or sponges) I use various sizes of artists brushes to get into the small pieces like buckle holders, corners, as well as brushing all seams before more coats are applied.

Two hours later and we are starting to get somewhere with the blotching toe.....taking many layers and much elbow grease! Heel area still a disaster....




5 AM till 8 AM this morning and we are finally getting a good build....I'd like to know what was put on these previously . You can see that we are slowly getting to a nice brown color....have moved to a mix of Mahagony and Medium Brown in the same jar and we will continue this evening, probably with another 4 coats before calling it a night.



At this moment we have around 3 hours into this pair of shoes....probably 3/4 done. This has taken a bit longer than normal due to the problems of the previous attempt at refinishing, but unless you are building enough layers to occupy about 3-4 hours, I can't imagine that the finish will wear nicely, let alone durably.

I'll pick it up again tomorrow when we, hopefully, get to the final steps.

[Sergio]

Artikel over het strippen en opnieuw kleuren van schoenen met aniline.

http://www.piedencap.net/spip.php?article87

[Stefan B.]

Deze FvB-tjes waren diep bordeaux rood. Met nagellak-remover gestripped en vervolgens met diverse schoenpoetsjes weer een beetje kleur gegeven. Loop er zeker nog wekelijks op.

[Migliore]

=D>

Geweldige reportages!

[Mikey Fuoco]

Deze FvB-tjes waren diep bordeaux rood. Met nagellak-remover gestripped en vervolgens met diverse schoenpoetsjes weer een beetje kleur gegeven. Loop er zeker nog wekelijks op.
- plaatje -

Stoere actie!   =D>

Krijg je de glans dan ook nog een beetje eenvoudig terug, of poets je je dan een ongeluk? En voor het poetsen, gebruik je dan normale schoenpoets?

Ik wil me ook eens aan zoiets wagen, echter denk ik dan echt aan verfen en finishen met blanke lak (de neus) en dan pas poetsen :idea:

[Stefan B.]

Mikey,

De lak vloog er vrij gemakkelijk af met nagellak-remover, ik denk dat het met aceton nog beter gaat.

Vervolgens heb ik mijn voorraadje poetsmiddelen van the royal treatment gepakt. Eerst met een combinatie van wat bordeaux-rood en vooral bruin het leer weer kleur gegeven. Dat gaat vrij aardig. Je moet dit wel een paar keer herhalen omdat het leer initeel wat flets kan blijven. Omdat er nog originele lak in de naden en rimpels achter blijft, hou je overigens vanzelf al een speels kleurscala over.

Na de gewone schoenpoets ook gekleurde wax erover gedaan en uitgepoetst met een borstel met een pantysok erover (synthetische poetsdoeken van de "Action"  :-$  doen het overigens nog beter en kosten geen drol!). Glimt als een dolle. Wel is het zo dat ik de schoen wat vaker even moet oppoetsen om de glans te behouden, wat dat betreft merk je wel dat ik geen verf heb gebruikt maar gewoon poetsmiddelen.

Het leer is wel behoorlijk droog na de actonbeurt, dus ik heb ok mijn potje met blanke vet nog moeten aanspreken om het leer weer wat te verwennen na deze afstraffing.....

Moet je wel bekennen dat ik wel wat peentjes heb gezweet of het allemaal goed zou komen, of dat ik in een opwelling een paar schoenen had vern***t.....

En, o ja, je moet je lieftallige wederhelft duidelijk zien te maken waarom opeens al haar nagellakremover op is en haar pantykousjes zijn verdwenen......... 8-[

[Mikey Fuoco]

Schitterend verhaal

[Stefan B.]

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