Het onderhoud van cordovan

[Leone]

Omdat een topic ontbreekt voor specifiek cordovan leer onderhoud:

video.

tekst.

http://www.europelli.com/ShellCordovanCare.html

http://www.shellcordovan.com/shell-cordovan-maintenance.html

http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF567_1_40000000001_-1

http://www.rennersbootsshoes.com/howtocaforsh.html

http://www.hangerproject.com/closet/polishing-shell-cordovan

http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/care_of_shell_cordovan.htm

[wolf]

geen cremes harde borstel.

[guest45]

The Mac Method

Those of us who frequent online footwear forums such as Ask Andy About Clothes and the Style Forum Alden thread are well aware of the enigmatic man known as Mcarthur.

Mcarthur has arguably the largest collection of Shell Cordovan Aldens on the internet (possibly the World) and is known for having the best shine on his shoes.

A man of impeccable taste, few words, and many argyle socks, Mcarthur has made his mark on the online shoe community in many ways. More about Mcarthur later…

Here is The Mac Method
1- Clean shoes with damp cloth
2- Brush vigorously with a horsehair brush
3- Buff with smooth cloth
4- Use wax after a minimum of fifteen wearings

Whiskey Chukka


Cigar Chukka



Whisky Indy



Another wise forum-member Srivats breaks it down a little further:

1. Wipe shoes with (barely) damp cloth to remove dirt. Let dry for 2-3 mins.
2. Insert shoetrees. Take a horsehair brush and brush vigourously till your arms give out. OK, for 5-6 min (each shoe).
3. Buff with flannel cloth.
4. Use paste wax (minute, minute amounts) every 15 wearings or so, or if they get scuffed hard. Yearly application of cordovan creme (not regular creme) if need be.
5. Rinse and repeat.

The point of all this being that for Shell Cordovan you want to bring out the natural luster from within, not put a shine on top using polishes. The more buildup there is, the worse Shell will look. Less is more.

[Leone]

wat voor borstel moet ik nou hebben voor cordo en waar te koop?

http://www.schoenspanners.nl/borstels-luxe-licht.html

how to:

http://www.ilmaestro.nl/00000098330d58eaa/index.html

[guest45]

^ te zacht, vind ik. Kan vast wel hoor maar suboptimaal in mijn ervaring. ymmv.


De bovenste gebruik ik voor suede en de onderste voor cordovan. Een oud nagelborsteltje is wat zachter dan een nieuwe.

Deze gebruik ik ook wel eens. iets zachter dan de nagelborstel maar beduidend harder dan een gewone paardenharen borstel.

[guest45]

hier verder

[Leone]

Een semi harde paardenhaar borstel, gekocht bij de plaatselijke schoenfitter voor een paar euro, doet het voor mij uitstekend op cordovan.  :idea:

De harde versie is goed tegen de scuffs, maar geeft minder (snel)glans.
De zachte versie doet het niet zo goed tegen de scuffs en is een monnikenwerk de schoen te laten glanzen.
De semi harde versie geeft een goed resultaat in beide segmenten.

Af en toe na poetsen met een zachte doek wil zelfs voor nog mee shine zorgen, vooral op zwart.

[Ramone]

Hoogglans met (alleen) een borstel bereiken? Lijkt mij verdomd moeilijk. 

Ben benieuwd naar resultaten daarvan...

[Mikey Fuoco]

Hooglans zal niet gaan denk ik, maar dat het een beetje gaat glimmen geloof ik wel.

[Leone]

Cordovan gaat in tegenstelling tot calf met een horsehair borstel glanzen/glimmen; hoogglans bereik je met een zachte (poets)doek.

[guest45]

Cordovan kleuren
Tekst van de blog van Corvus.
De 'standaard' kleuren zijn welbekende #8 en zwart.
Andere Horween kleuren zijn:

Natural.
This is actually shell to which no color has been added at all. It is entirely undyed vegetable-tanned horse shell. When it is new, it is quite light in color -- a light tan, although the color varies depending on how long between the time it was manufactured and sold.


Whiskey
A light brown dyed color. Similar in tone to brand-new Natural shell, though without the ability to achieve a patina. This color is the only way to achieve a light brown that will not darken, as the Natural will darken to a very much darker nut brown in a few months. A lovely color that was once available as a custom Alden color, although it is no longer featured on their website. Very few shells are processed in this color because its light tone shows any imperfection in the hide.


Ravello
A medium-brown chestnut color. Somewhat similar to the color the natural will darken to, but without the variability and the vintage look. Also very rare for the same reasons as the other light colors.


#2
Semi-mythical. A light reddish burgundy. About half as dark as #4, and one-quarter as dark as #8.


#4
We at Corvus call Color #4 "oxblood" because it has a lot of red in it, and is a rich, deep burgandy color. The surface has the most gloss of any of the dyed colors, as opposed to the mostly matte finish of the natural. This color will match many shoes and briefcases. It is a classic, preppy look. It is a very unusual color to find in Shell Cordovan and rarely available in anything but a few limited edition shoes and our Corvus watchstraps. Its manufacture is limited, as with the other lighter colors, to only the best quality shell hides.


#6
A very obscure color that is much like #4, only darker. As suggested by the number, it is basically a reddish-brown halfway between #4 and #8. Instead, leave your  #8's in the sun for a few weeks.


#8
For traditional clothing aficiandos, Horween Color #8 Shell Cordovan is an obsession, and such accessories (especially shoes) are items of veneration. It is quite simply the most famous shoe leather in the world, used extensively by Alden, Allen Edmond, Crockett & Jones, Yuketen and Beams. The appeal is due to the unusual complexity of color acheived by Horween in the dying process. When new, color #8 appears as a rich, dark brown with relatively little reddish tone. On a pair of shoes, however, as creases and folds develop, the dark brown begins to reveal a wide variety of red, reddish-brown, and even purple tones. Exposure to the sun causes further variation and lightening. Color #8 is less glossy than #4, almost, but not quite matte. Although we at Corvus call it "dark brown," the color is sometimes called "dark burgundy" or even "cordovan."


Cigar
A medium-dark brown, a bit lighter than #8, but without the complexity of color and no red tones. A great solid brown. Very rare.


Navy
Navy blue shell cordovan. So rare that very few people have ever seen it or know of its existence. But it is made, and is unusual and very cool.


Green

[Velponi]

Mooi, Chris.

Toch wel cool, de #8.

[Emilio]

Op een of andere manier associeer ik nummer 8 met cordovan. Bij de andere kleuren heb ik een beetje het idee dat je ook gewoon leer had kunnen nemen..

[guest45]

...totdat je het voelt.
Cordovan is anders.
Love/Hate.
Ik vind het wel cool voor de stoerdere schoen; boots bij uitstek.

[NOBD]

Leuk, Chris. Cigar voor mij.