Like so many other military staples before it, the trenchcoat has successfully gone from the front lines to the front row, building an interesting history in form, fabric, and fan base in the process. In "The Trench Book" (Assouline), journalist and historian Nick Foulkes dissects the garment that has been loved by officers, gentlemen, and flashers since the mid-nineteenth century. Here, the author gets personal about his topic, stressing that "anyone who is interested in dressing well must be interested in the trench."Where did your love affair with the trenchcoat begin?I've always been interested in smart clothes. I liked to watch old films just to see what the men were wearing. When I was going to school there were jumble sales where you could find really great old suits and trenches. You could buy them very cheaply in those days—and you could fit a half bottle of spirits in the pockets and no one would notice! So I had this amazing wardrobe that was made on Savile Row and cost nothing.
When were the golden years for the trench?It seems wrong to talk about trench warfare as a golden age, as there was so much killing, but that's when I think it was at its best. And in "The Life and Death of Colonel Blimp", a 1943 film directed by Powell and Pressburger. That for me is the perfect trench. I quite like the 1850's as an era as well, so that would be number two on my list. At that point, it was not exactly a trench, but an Aquascutum coat with a military function. And then there's always Peter Sellers [as Inspector Clouseau].
Why do you think trenchcoats have stood the test of time—and continue to be reinterpreted by designers every season?One reason is that they last a really long time. They're meant to be indestructible, which makes them the ultimate environmentally friendly coat—the use they get being recycled by so many different owners! They're also immensely practical. Plus, military clothing always influences fashion. You put this thing on and you feel powerful. It looks good on anyone, irrespective of physique. In a trench, men feel like a swaggering officer, and there's little better than a woman wearing one that's tightly belted.
Who's your trench icon?Many people think of Humphrey Bogart but I'm afraid I'm going have to stick with good ol' Colonel Blimp.
What do you think all of the designer interpretations of this classic?The trench has survived to become a fashion icon because it functions as a spare-parts bin for designers who can look at it in its original form and say, "Ooh, I'll take that detail and incorporate it into my own design." Which ensures that it will survive for future generations.
—Celia Ellenberg
http://www.amazon.com/Trench-Book-Nick-Foulkes/dp/2759401634De auteur is een goede bekende op de stylefora,
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