Auteur Topic: Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties  (5668 keer gelezen)

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Gepost op: 01 februari 2008 – 23:58:13
Ai
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=21880

Citaat van: "Baron Kurtz"
Well, i've finally got around to scanning in the appropriate wardrobe sections of the Sotheby's "Duke and Duchess of Windsor" auction catalogue. As some may know, Mohammed Fayed - proprietor of Harrods - bought the Windsor's Paris residence and everything in it. This included the majority of the Duke's wardrobe. All the proceeds went to charity.

Here are the suits. I will be adding captions throughout the next few days.



All these images from Session 16: The Duke of Windsor's Wardrobe. The total sale price for the wardrobe was about $750,000. The whole auction raked in about $23,000,000.



"The Duke's measurements hardly varied through his lifetime. The usual measurements for the suits are as follows.

Jackets

Chest: 38-39 inches
Waist: 36 inches

Trousers

Waist: 29 inches
Inside Leg: 29 inches
Outside Leg: 41-42 inches

Hats average size 6 7/8"

To put it another way, exactly the measurements of a certain Baron of today . . .



[ABOVE] The Duke's dressing room at the Paris residence with a suit in medium weight worsted with darker blue checking. The jacket is dated 16/11/56 by Scholte, London and the trousers dated 3/4/57 by Harris, New York. Jacket has side vents and substantially padded shoulders.



[ABOVE] A double breasted navy wool suit with Grenadier (front buttons) and Welsh Guards Officer (sleeve buttons) buttons, worn on the 1936 Nahlin cruise. Jacket by Scholte, London labelled H.R.H. The Prince of Wales 25.4.31 Made of lightweight navy worsted. The matching pair of trousers were made by Forster & Son, London.



[ABOVE] Grey and white ribbed suit with Royal Yacht Squadron buttons. Later inserted side vents. Jacket by Scholte, named and date 1938, and trousers by Forster & Son. The Duke was photographed in the USA in this suit in 1943.

bk


Citaat van: "Baron Kurtz"


[ABOVE] A Tyrolian suit by F. Humhal, Vienna. 1937. Grey Loden cloth with oak leaf appliqué, horn buttons and green piping to trouser side seams.



[ABOVE] Prince of Wales check sports suit. Jacket by Scholte and stalking trousers (modified plus-fours) by Forster & Sons. 1923. Altered in the mid 1930s when a zip was inserted. Came with the removable blue cotton plus-four linings we've heard so much about.



[ABOVE] A rust Harris tweed golfing suit, 11.12.24. Jacket by Scholte, trousers by Forster & Sons. Jacket has a convertible collar for cold weather (I assume this means a button to which the lapel buttonhole fastens). Trousers "cut high in the waist and originally supported by an inner elasticated girdle to maintain a looser hang. The hems curve under to fasten to the cotton plus-four lining.



[ABOVE] Pecan brown and beige wool Shepherd's check suit, 1934. Jacket by Scholte, trousers/plus-fours by Forster & Sons. Again, the convertible collar for cold weather. I would say those are crescent hip pockets but i can't be certain.



[ABOVE] Check tweed sport suit, and perhaps the greatest suit i've ever laid eyes upon, 1930. Again, the hip pockets would appear to be crescent.

bk


Citaat van: "Baron Kurtz"
Tartan outfits. Them royals do like to pretend they are Scottish! They find the idea "quaint", no doubt.



[ABOVE] Hunting Lord of the Isles dress kilt ensemble. Sometime 1920-1935. The jacket is a corduroy doublet by Scholte, dated 10.11.38 Lord of the Isles was a titled bestowed upon DoW when PoW. The title was originaly assumed by the MacDonalds and was forfeited in 1493. Therefore the hunting Lord of the Isles tartan is based upon the general scheme of the [modern] MacDonald tartan.



[ABOVE] Black and white houndstooth Harris tweed jacket and waistcoat. Dated 8.6.33, tailor's name not listed in catalogue.

[BELOW] The same jacket/waistcoat being worn by the man himself.





[ABOVE] Rothesay Hunting tartan lounge suit with shaw collar. Made in 1897 apparently for his father, George V. re-tailored to fit DoW with a Talon zip added in place of the button fly. Apparently this suit triggered a vogue in tartan in the USA in the 50s.



[ABOVE] Hunting Lord of the Isles tartan evening suit. Jacket by Scholte dated 8.6.51, Trousers by Harris, New York. Jacket has side vents.

bk



Citaat van: "Baron Kurtz"
Formal and evening (at home) wear



[ABOVE] The morning coat and trousers worn to his wedding, with a different waistcoat. Jacket by Scholte is a herringbone cashmere weave and is marked H.M. The King, 25.1.36. Waistcoat matches the jacket and marked same. The morning trousers are by Forster & Son and marked 9.6.32 This was bought by the CEO of Kiton for $27,600.



[ABOVE] A midnight blue worsted formal evening dress suit, 1937. Jacket probably Scholte, trousers by Forster & Son



[ABOVE] A dark grey worsted 3-piece morning suit. Jacket and DB waistcoat by Scholte, marked 9.6.31 Trousers by Forster & Son marked 10.6.31



[ABOVE] A group of Hawes & Curtis white piqué formal dress waistcoats, 1930-40.



[ABOVE] A dark green double-breasted corduroy shawl-collared dinner jacket with Beaufort Hunt buttons. by Scholte, dated 12.10.59 and a pair of H. Harris, New York, trousers in navy herringbone wool and cashmere marked 1.2.56

bk


Citaat van: "Baron Kurtz"


[ABOVE] A beige and Brown houndstooth check suit, 1932. Jacket by Scholte has side vents. Trousers by Forster & Son. (I don't know why they reversed this photograph for the catalogue but they did.)



[ABOVE] Navy pintripe suit with Royal Yacht Squadron buttons. Jacket by Metzel, New York and trousers by H. Harris, New York, 7.21.44



And my favourite things from the collection, his swatch booklets. Two aluminium wallets with town clothes, and one for sports clothes. Inside are paper sheets with swatches of fabric attached. Hand written notes say where each garment is located (NYC, Paris, The Mill (French country retreat)). From the catalogue blurb: "It serves as a very interesting and useful record of his entire wardrobe around 1960 . . . The swatch boxes show that he owned approximately 15 evening suits (of which six remain), over fifty-five lounge suits, of which thirty would have been kept in Paris. Only six or so remain of these, and only five of them relate directly to the swatch boxes. The majority of the formal and Highland dress detailed in the swatch boxes still remains in the collection as the Duke kept most of his formal wear in Paris and his Highland dress at The Mill, where he was fond of wearing it in the evening." This seems to me to be an excellent idea for someone who has multiple residences and a massive wardrobe.

bk
cyka blyat

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #1 Gepost op: 02 februari 2008 – 00:03:51
Een aantal van deze pakken is gekocht door Kiton.

http://www.kiton.it/kiting/indexg.htm

Knopje linksonderin:
The duke of Windsor collection.
cyka blyat

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #2 Gepost op: 02 februari 2008 – 00:15:56
Interessant: de duke droeg broeken zonder knopengulp, de knopen op van de mouw van het jasje konden niet open! Alle bijzondere bespoke opties waren verborgen voor het oog van de toeschouwer. Maar Michael Alden kan dat allemaal veel beter uitleggen:

Citaat van: "alden"
Let us forget the man for a moment and focus on Windsor’s clothes.

In the archives, each piece of the Duke of Windsor’s clothes is wrapped in special protective paper and stored hanging in a kind of vault. Opening the pieces of paper to reveal the suits is a bit like discovering Inca gold or Tutankhamen’s burial crypt. Flashlights blinking, incense smoldering and then suddenly appearing out of the mist the twinkling luminescence of a tweed suit!  



The first eyeful of suit was of absolutely splendid tweed. The first fistful of suit was at the shoulder where I immediately recognized Scholte, forerunner of AS and the other tailors who practice the noble art of the natural shoulder. If I closed my eyes I could be feeling my own jacket’s shoulder, a distant relative: the feeling of dense, rich cloth and nothing more. But this cloth was something I had not had the occasion to feel very often. It was very dense and tightly woven cloth, light in the hand for its weight, hand woven cloth that had taken someone weeks of labor.



There are a few topics that are likely to recur in this description of the Duke’s clothes so good sense would have us define the major points straight away: quality of fabrics used, supreme quality of the handwork, overall sobriety of design and perfection of balance demonstrated. It seems to me that this about summarizes what many bespoke clients are after when they choose cloth and visit tailors. Windsor had it all.

Design

The most striking aspect of the design of the suits was the absence of design.
As I went over the coat with my tape measure, hoping to discover some element of elegance heretofore undiscovered, it became quite clear that the clothes were textbook Savile Row. Back balance, front balance, lapel width, lapel height, buttoning point, pocket height, back neck measure, one by one I clicked them off and noted each bit of data carefully. The numbers confirmed the lack of any design anomaly. The only thing out of the ordinary was the shoulder seam recessed to a point half an inch further back from where one might expect to see it. The vents in the jacket are also shorter than what we might expect to see:



The personal features of Windsor’s clothes, what we might call the design features, were hidden from sight. They were features intended to improve his comfort not impress the beholder. No ornaments to be found here. Instead of knick knacks, bells, whistles, accessories, or add-ons, one notes simplicity. For example, no opening button holes:






An example of a personal Windsor touch can be found in the buttoned in boxer shorts feature.



The Duke also favored two back pockets on his trousers, one with button and one without. This was to make accessing his cigarette case easier.



Let’s put another mystery to rest: the crescent pockets are without flaps.



So my first thought on seeing Windsor’s clothes was the absolute futility of both fashion and design: the two charlatans who have successively lured and betrayed men for decades. Take Windsor’s clothes, grow them to fit your size and you will see how actual and modern they truly are.

What has changed since 1932 is the quality of the materials and hand work. Stay tuned for Part II.


http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5490&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
cyka blyat

Monsieur Seriziat

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 1.824
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #3 Gepost op: 02 februari 2008 – 10:17:20
Leuke post D :!:  =D>





zeg, kun je dat boekje nog ergens krijgen :?:

Camiceria

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 2.935
  • Respect Perry
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #4 Gepost op: 02 februari 2008 – 11:19:55
Heel vet!
Cami schrijft een blogje op www.heerlijkbynvn.blogspot.com

Hobson: 'Ah yes, Arthur, bathing is a lonely business.' Arthur: 'Except for fish. Fish all bathe together.'

Desiderata

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 1.875
    • Profiel bekijken
Re: Sotheby's "Duke and Duchess of Windsor" veilin
Reactie #5 Gepost op: 02 februari 2008 – 15:14:19
Citaat van: "Daedalus"
Dit is de shit  =P~
Kudos voor Baron Kurtz. Serieus, hulde.
(...)



Twee dingen vallen mij in het bijzonder op:[list=1]
  • Hoe de ontwerpers van het hedendaagse rokwit 'inspiratie hebben opgedaan' van het rokwit zoals dat hierboven wordt weergegeven. Dat zie ik bijvoorbeeld bij mijn rokwit van Bosweel.
  • Dat ik -vorig jaar- zonder het bestaan van deze foto te kennen, een pantalon van Loro Piana heb besteld die grote gelijkenis vertoont met de foto. Weliswaar is de mijne een worsted en geen tweed, maar ik vind het toch leuk om te zien...[/list:o]Groeten,
    Don

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #6 Gepost op: 02 februari 2008 – 16:19:12

De pakken in de hal zijn die van de duke.
cyka blyat

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #7 Gepost op: 09 februari 2008 – 23:32:40
cyka blyat

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #8 Gepost op: 25 februari 2008 – 21:46:31
http://brilliantasylum.blogspot.com/2007/10/his-and-hers.html
Meer foto's van geveilde stukken, waaronder de schoencollectie.
cyka blyat

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #9 Gepost op: 01 juni 2008 – 17:14:22
Citaat van: "LabelKing"
I recently got the Sotheby's catalog of the Roger Collection, which was the 1998 sale of the personal effects of Mr.Neil Munroe "Bunny" Roger. Among the furniture and decorative pieces was his wardrobe, tailored to accentuate his broad shoulders and size 29 waist.

He had his suits done at the Savile Row firm of Watson, Fargerstrom & Hughes and the shoes were by Poulsen, Skone & Co. His sharply upturned bowlers were by Herbert Johnson. The catalog notes that every year, he would order about 15 new suits, each costing up to 2,000 pounds back in the '60s.

He favored an extremely fitted Edwardian shape with turn-up sleeve cuffs, and tapered military trousers which suited his Chelsea boots and faux-spatted button boots. When he was vacationing in Capri, he kept telling the Italian tailors he was commissioning some pants from, "stretta, stretta" until the narrow fit was achieved. Another one of his signatures was a carnation that coordinated with whatever color he was wearing at the time. He also abhorred turn-ups on trousers.

His day-suits usually had three waist seams to achieve the desired curve. Among the more interesting items was a lurex psychedelic Nehru suit for evening wear, like something Austin Powers might wear for a ball.

When he was in the Rifle Brigade, he saved a fallen cadre in no-man's land, whilst rogued and wearing a chiffon scarf with his uniform.

His measurements, as noted by Sotheby's, were:

Waist: 29
Chest: 40
Inseam: 32
Shoe: 7










Meer foto's in het topic. http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=50106
cyka blyat

DaanL

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 1.546
    • Profiel bekijken
Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #10 Gepost op: 01 juni 2008 – 22:07:49
Mooie post D.!

Daedalus

  • Gebruiker
  • Berichten: 577
    • Profiel bekijken
Re: Veilingcatalogi - kledingcollecties
Reactie #11 Gepost op: 27 oktober 2008 – 11:32:36
Knoopjes op mouwtjes van jasjes van een zeker hertogje.

cyka blyat