Verhelderend dankzij : Dressing the Man (Alan Flusser)
A suit wistcoat
All tailored men's vests descend from the original postboy waistcoat of 19th centruy England. Worn by the postboy, or postilion, who rode as a guide on one of the pairs of horses attached to a coach, the garment was intended mainly to provide warmth, so it was usually made of a woolen fabric, front and back, and cut high under the armholes. The wiastcoat is technically the most challenging garment to construct satisfactorily. As a high point of the tailor's craft, it is required to lie flat as a pancake on a surface as contoured as a potato as well as maintain a "touch fit" that is nowhere tight. The wc has survivied becuase it added gravitas to the single-breasted suit, held a tie in place, kept the shirt njeat and tidy, and lent an efficient appearance to working in shirtsleeves. It was not only warm and decorative but utilitarian, since the wearer carried a heavy gold watch in one waistcoat pocket and his watch fob in antoehr, with a gold chain extending across its front to connect the two
Prior to the II WW most single-breasted as well as many double-breasted suits were worn with a vest. However, historical circumstances conspired against the wc. Central heating and the arrival of warm-weather fashions in the late twenties encouraged the shedding of superfluous clothing. The d-b suit was the first to dispense with its customary wc, and when wartime fabric rationing all but dealt the suit vest a deathblow. In the 60s, three-piece suits began a slow recovery, but the invlusion of the vest increased the ensemble's retail price, diminishing its commercial viability. Today the vested suit is a remembrance of things past and accessible only th those able to afford on custom made.
Heb voor mezelf een mooi 3-delig pak laten maken (met revers aan het gilet en beide kanten in dezelfde stof). Post deze als hij af is.