Prins Philip verhoogt de inzet met 2 knopen.
Misschien kan jij eens laten zien hoe het wel moet Paul. Ik geloof niet dat ik ooit een foto van je heb gezien.
Ziet er echt net uit, die Philip... in vele opzichten: te lange broek, te lange mouwen, raar jasje...
Overigens heet zo'n 'raar' jasje natuurlijk een 'blazer' of, voor de sartoriale historici onder ons, een 'boating jacket'. Die van Prins Charles heeft 5 knopen op de mouw.
Dat 'rare' jasje is een erfenis uit het marineverleden van de prins. Dat verklaart denk ik de acht knopen en de lengte van de mouwen. Ik denk dat dit een bewuste keuze is geweest. En de snit van de broek wordt natuurlijk bepaald door persoonlijke smaak, traditie en ook mode(!).
Rubinacci?
Loro PianaSilhouetteLong and slim, emphasizing the legs.CutClose and tight, but also soft and supple.Signature DetailsShort, butterflied jacket, trousers with no break, flared lapel pinstripes on double-breasted suits.Price$2,500-$4,000For An Appointment212-980-7961Sergio thinks, Sergio believes, Sergio feels: These phrases are the mantra at the Loro Piana boutique in Manhattan. They refer to co-chairman Sergio Loro Piana, perennially named one of the most elegant men in Italy and in his own company the absolute monarch on questions of style.Tailoring is not the mainstay of Loro Piana, fabric is. The company is the world's largest buyer and weaver of fine wool and cashmere, and it is much better known for its sportswear and accessories than it is for custom suits. But if you come here for the latter you'll get two things: One of the best price/value relationships in a custom suit in America, and a garment that's the essence of Milanese tailoring, which means a soft-shouldered, soft-chested suit. It is much more supple than one from Savile Row ("You put one of those jackets on the floor and they stand up by themselves," jokes Umberto, Loro Piana's master tailor in New York) but not as light as one from Naples. The tailoring is first-rank; what makes the suit singular is the way the Milanese style has been distilled by Sergio Loro Piana.More than most suits, this one emphasizes the legs. The trousers, have almost no break at the cuff and they're cut narrow, so they virtually outline the lower body—fabulous if you're tall, but also if you're of moderate height. After all, the original customer was the Milanese man, who tends to be smaller-boned, shorter, and lighter than his American counterpart. The jacket is cut on the short side, dividing the body in half so almost the entire leg is visible. (Since I'm tall, Umberto actually made it even shorter.) Smaller elements, such as the placement of the trouser pockets right on the side seam and the prominent butterflying of the jacket bottom reinforce the emphasis on the lower body, while also adding to the streamlined feel of the suit.In pursuit of a long, athletic silhouette, Sergio places the gorge high and the armhole, too, and gives the shoulders a hint of roping. On double-breasted suits, he insists that the lapels be very wide and that pinstripes flare out at the top of them—a very smart touch, actually. Jacket sleeves are shorter than most to give cuffs the limelight.Just don't ask for a single-breasted peak-lapel suit: Sergio doesn't think it's an elegant cut, and therefore Loro Piana will politely suggest an alternative. "We lose a lot of business because there are things we won't do," says Loro Piana's North America president, Pier Luigi Guerci. In this homogenized, customer-is-king world, you have to admire that.
Zijn silhouette en cut gaan in ieder geval niet op voor het pak dat hij zelf op deze foto's draagt.
