Moccasin Construction MethodsDoor: Doctor Damage
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showpost.php?p=441928&postcount=2Below are several diagrams to show how various types of genuine moccasins are constructed. The diagrams are a cross-section through the metatarsals. The red bars represent stitching.
Diagrams #1 & #2 (Weejuns):
Note that in the first diagram the uppers/quarters – which in a genuine moccasin constructed shoe are the same piece of leather – have been up-lasted around the last, i.e. from the bottom up. The uppers are first stitched to the upper sole, which is then stretched around the last from the bottom up. The apron/plug is stitched to the uppers/quarters to close the shoe from the top. Then the outer sole is glued and stitched to the upper sole (with separate stitching). In the second diagram, the outer sole is glued on, but otherwise the construction method is the same. Examples include Weejuns, Sebago “Classic” and “Cayman” models, various Allen-Edmonds penny loafers, the Alden Cape Cod series loafers, etc.
This method is illustrated by a pair of Weejuns I dismantled (photos to follow later in this thread).
Diagram #3 (Blake):
This method is basically a single sole which functions as both the upper and outer soles. The shoe is stitched together the same way as in Diagram #1 above, but with only one sole. Members of the fashion forum can provide examples here, but I have a pair of Bruno Magli’s which are made with this method. (I should note that I am 99% sure I have just described the Blake method – does anyone know better?)
Diagram #4 (Gucci):
The old classic Gucci loafers are constructed in this manner. The key difference here is the deep channel which is cut in the outer sole and sealed up after stitching to the uppers. So when you look at the soles of these shoes they look glued on, but are in reality stitched. Obviously other shoes are made this way, but Gucci’s are probably the most famous example, hence I have used them here. (Note that the plug/apron on Gucci’s is first wrapped over the upper/quarters with a thin rope before stitching, but this doesn’t affect the basic moccasin construction method.)
Diagram #5 (Tod’s):
Just for information, the diagram shows how Tod’s driving moccasins are constructed. Basically a pre-formed rubber insert is sewn to the uppers (which is pre-punched to fit the rubber nubs), the uppers are lasted upwards, and the apron/plug sewn to the top to close the shoe.
Overall, the key point to undertand about genuine moccasin constructed shoes is the way the uppers/quarters are lasted upwards around the last from the bottom up and sewn together at the top.
What Are The Implications Of Different Methods Of Shoe Construction For Moccasins?Because genuine moccasin constructed shoes are up-lasted and sewn together at the top, they have several unique features:
1. The stitching around the apron/plug adds stiffness to the toes, so no toe puff or stiffener is needed for the toes to keep their shape.
2. The stitching around the apron/plug can stretch, thereby allowing for slight changes in the volume of the shoes in the toe box. Beefrolls also allow some changes in volume around the instep as well.
3. The shoes can be constructed without linings and heel counters (although most include the latter), which means they re-shape to the foot more readily.
4. The soles can be very thin, which means a lighter shoe overall.
In summary, this means that genuine moccasin constructed shoes are pre-disposed to be softer, more flexible, and stretchable. Which is great for ready-to-wear shoes and for people who can’t (or won’t) afford bespoke shoes, and are tired of stiff shoes that never quite fit perfectly. On the other hand, genuine moccasin constructed shoes are more difficult to re-sole (depending on construction method) and provide much less support for the foot than Goodyear/welted shoes.
Why Are Genuine Moccasins Special?So what is the advantage of genuine moccasin construction? There are several answers, but the most crucial is they way they grip the foot, known as “positive fit”.
Positive Fit:
The Sebago website notes that their Classic and Cayman models have positive fit, but what does this mean? Frankly, I don’t know for sure, but my instinct tells me that it involves the way a genuine moccasin constructed shoe grips the foot without relying on laces, elastics, etc.
The following photos illustrate how this works. Both shoes are Gucci moccasins, the one on the left is the 015940 and on the right the 015942 – both models are now discontinued. These have been chosen since they are identical in construction and they show the differences between a new shoe (left) and a used shoe (right).
Note in the first image that the opening for the foot is a triangle, with the point at the heel. The rear quarters in fact appear to hang inwards. This matches the general shape of the human foot, at least from the perspective of creating a last for maximum performance. Lasts for genuine moccasins will have this signature shape, which is in fact slightly narrower at the heel and waist, but slightly higher across the instep (where the tongue is located), than the human foot.
When the foot is inserted, the genuine moccasin re-shapes as per the second photo. The opening for the foot gets wider at the waist, which means the tongue is pulled lower over the instep and the heel is pulled forward, both adjustments helping to ensure that the shoe grips the foot better.
Why Does The Alden LHS Fit Inconsistently?The photos below show the difference between genuine moccasins and Goodyear/welted shoes. The photos below compare a pair of Weejuns with a pair of Alden LHS penny loafers and Alden tassel loafers. Each are new shoes.
Note that the Weejuns have the signature “triangle” foot opening of genuine moccasin construction, while the LHS clearly does not. This difference, plus the fact that the LHS is not genuine moccasin construction but rather Goodyear/welted, means the LHS does not have the positive fit characteristics of the Weejun, nor the flexibility to shape to the foot.
And here’s where my crazy theory comes in:
Without positive fit characteristics, the LHS does not grip the foot well, particularly at the heel, leading customers to buy a smaller size than they should to get the heels to stay on. This leads to the oft-mentioned tight feeling across the instep. With a better shaped foot opening, the LHS would grip the foot better and customers would be able to buy shoes which were not too tight across the instep.
Ironically, the Alden tassel loafers, although not genuine moccasin construction, have a foot opening with positive fit characteristics which appear superior to the LHS (see photos above), which is probably why we don’t hear the same complaints about the tassel versus the LHS.
